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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.